Arriving

The easiest and most common way to get to St. John is by ferry (tel. 340/776-6282), which leaves from the Red Hook landing pier on St. Thomas's eastern tip; the trip takes about 20 minutes each way. Beginning at 6:30am, boats depart more or less every hour. The last ferry back to Red Hook departs from St. John's Cruz Bay at 11pm. The service is frequent and efficient enough that even cruise-ship passengers temporarily anchored in Charlotte Amalie can visit St. John for a quick island tour. The one-way fare is $5 for adults, $1 for children 11 and under. Schedules change without notice, so call in advance.

To reach the ferry, take the Vitran bus from the ferry dock near Market Square (in Charlotte Amalie) directly to Red Hook. The cost is $1 per person each way. In addition, privately owned taxis will negotiate a price to carry you from virtually anywhere on the island to the docks at Red Hook.

If you've just landed on St. Thomas and want to go straight to your chosen ferry dock, your best bet is to take a cab from the airport (Vitran buses run from Charlotte Amalie but don't serve the airport area). Depending on the traffic, the cab ride on St. Thomas could take 30 to 45 minutes, at a fare between $20 and $22. After disembarking from the ferry on St. John, you'll have to get another cab to your hotel.

It's also possible to board a boat for St. John directly at the Charlotte Amalie waterfront, from Vendors Plaza at the corner of Veterans Drive and Tolbod Gade, for a cost of $10 each way for adults and $1 for children 11 and under. The ride takes 45 minutes. The boats depart from Charlotte Amalie at 7:15am and continue at intervals of 2 hours, until the last boat departs around 5:30pm. (The last boat to leave St. John's Cruz Bay for Charlotte Amalie departs at 3:45pm.) Call tel. 340/776-6282 for more information.

The tourist office (tel. 340/776-6450) is located near the Battery, a 1735 fort that's a short walk from the St. Thomas ferry dock in Cruz Bay. It's open Monday to Friday from 8am to 5pm. A National Park visitor center (tel. 340/776-6201) is also found at Cruz Bay, offering two floors of information and wall-mounted wildlife displays, plus a video presentation about the culture of the Virgin Islands. Open daily 8am to 4:30pm.

You can pick up a map of the island from the tourist office and also a copy of St. John This Week, which is distributed free.

Island Layout

Most visitors will arrive on St. John at Cruz Bay, on a ferry from St. Thomas. This tiny town, with its few restaurants and shops, is quite the departure from the bustle of Charlotte Amalie. Cruz Bay is also the first stop on any trip to Virgin Islands National Park, which sprawls through the interior and encompasses almost all the coastline. The park service runs an information center in town. Route 20 leads north out of Cruz Bay, and passes the beaches at Caneel, Hawksnest, Trunk, Cinnamon, and Maho bays. At the far north, Route 20 leads to the start of the Annaberg Trail, a historic hike through the ruins of 18th-century sugar plantations. Route 10 cuts through the center of the island. Dozens of foot trails lead off this road, making for easy exploration of the peaks and mountains. On the east end of the island is Coral Bay, a favorite among yachties and home to a smattering of small restaurants and bars. Crumbling ruins of forts and plantations also dot the coastline here. The far east end is undeveloped and pales in comparison to the lush greenery of the park. The south coast is a favorite hideaway for locals, but little-known by visitors. The coast here is sweeping and tranquil, yet rocky in parts and punctuated with a handful of small protected bays.

Getting Around

The 20-minute ferry ride from St. Thomas will take you to Cruz Bay, the capital of St. John, which seems a century removed from the life you left behind. Cruz Bay is so small that its streets have no names, but it does have the Mongoose Junction shopping center (definitely worth a visit), a scattering of restaurants, and a small park. Cruise ships are nonexistent here, so you won't find hordes of milling shoppers. After a stroll around town, seek out the natural attractions of the island.

By Bus & Taxi -- The most popular way to get around is by the local Vitran (tel. 340/774-0165) service, the same company that runs the buses on St. Thomas. Buses run between Cruz Bay and Coral Bay, costing $1 for adults and 75¢ for children.

An open-air surrey-style taxi is more fun, however. Typical fares are $9 to Trunk Bay, $11 to Cinnamon Bay, or $14 to Maho Bay. Between midnight and 6am, fares are increased by 50%. Taxis meet the ferries as they arrive in Cruz Bay, or you can hail one if you see one. More than likely, you or your hotel will have to call one. Call tel. 340/693-7530 for more information.

By Car or Jeep -- One of the most exciting ways to see St. John is by a four-wheel-drive vehicle, which you can rent in town (in winter it's best to reserve in advance). The steep roadside panoramas are richly tinted with tones of forest green and turquoise and liberally accented with flashes of silver and gold from the strong Caribbean sun. Most visitors need a car for only a day or two. Remember: Drive on the left and follow posted speed limits, which are generally very low.

Unless you need to carry luggage, which should probably be locked away in a trunk, you might consider one of the sturdy, open-sided, jeeplike vehicles that offer the best view of the surroundings and are the most fun way to tour St. John. Note that most of these vehicles have manual transmission, which can be especially tricky in a car built to drive on the left side of the road. They cost around $76 to $84 a day.

The largest car-rental agency on St. John is Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131 in the U.S., or 340/776-6171; www.hertz.com). If you want a local firm, try St. John Car Rental, across from the Catholic church in Cruz Bay (tel. 340/776-6103; www.stjohncarrental.com).